Doppel-Klick Maus Repeatur Möglich?

[YT]37Oaw26kysY[/YT]
https://youtu.be/37Oaw26kysY

Also einmal betätigen gibt es einen Doppelklick von der Linken Maustaste.
Das merkt man wenn Texte markieren will oder im Email Programm emails in andere Ordner verschieben will, das klappt dann nicht.

Uff das so mega Fusseln im Taster drin sind hätte ich nicht gedacht wie auf dem Video.

:d: Okay Das man da was an der Geometrie ändern kann, konnte ich nur so halb erahnen aber dann weiß ich wenigstens das nach dem Reinigen es doch noch schief gehen kann. meine Maus Logitech G602 ist im Jahr 2013 „Anfang? Mitte? Ende? weiß ich jetzt nicht mehr, gekauft worden.Wer das Gute Teil mal zerlegen und Reinigen 😀 Sind bestimmt Katzenhaare drin und schauen welcher Schalter verbaut ist.Und den dann selber Tauschen :-k aber erst wenn mein Wakü Projekt betriebsbereit ist, das Projekt hat Vorrang :banana:

:banana: cool danke für die Links!

Habe die für 50 Millionen Klicks bestellt…..wenn das überhaupt Stimmt mit 10 ,20 ,50 :-k Klicks und nicht nur einfach ne Zahl auf den Schalter dran gepappt ist. Und alle die selbe Klickzahl haben.

:(:fresse::shit::banana::devil:Bohrrrrrrrrrrrr 2 Stunden habe ich gebraucht 😥 die „Lötpumpe“ war die Spitze zu Fett ….also mit 8mm Durchmesser Außen viel zu Dick um an die stellen zu kommen x( hatte einfach keine Saugkraft.Aber das Werk ist voll Braucht Mega Millionen Danke :mk rult: vorher war ein 20 Millionen Schalter verbaut im Original jetzt 50 Millionen Schalter :banana: jetzt hoffe ich das wieder in Shootern besser Treffe 😀 O:-)

:d: yo echt cooler Meisterkuehler Tipp Entlötlitze hat auch nicht geholfen …….Bin auch ein Noob was Löten in Elektronik an geht.Vielleicht ist auch die Lötspitze zu Dick? oder das Entlötlitze war zu breit :-k oder beides.:devil: Doch eine Ausrede habe ich …. wenn ich nicht Treffe …..habe ich vorher kein Zielwasser getrunken……:banana:Bin ja :+ mega Pro Gamer …….deswegen musste ich ja so oft die Linke Maustaste betätigen O:-) weil ich immer Treffe ….egal was :banana:hmmmmSuche jetzt solche

hmm Ich muss jedenfalls eine Professionelle Absaugpumpe kaufen aber im Netz bis jetzt keine Gefunden.Und ganz feine Entlötlizen und einen neuen Lötklöbel……leider Habe ich keine Ahnung wo ich und wie andere Lötkolbenspitzen kaufen kann bei amazon.de gibt es ein paar nur ob die Passen??? weiß ich nicht. Wie gesagt hat das bestimmt 2 Stunden gedauert bis ich den Kaputten Schalter ausgebaut hatte weil das Lötzinn nicht weg wollte. Und ob es wirklich 20 Millionen klick Mikroschalter gibt und 50 Millionen finde ich es auch von Logitech eine Große Sauerei nur 20 Millionen Schalter zu verbauen. Habe dann noch die Geplante Obsoleszenz von meiner Logitech G13 ausgehebelt…. :fresse: die Schweine musste zwei mal ran der HiMake Schlater auf dem Foto ist noch vollkommen Okay.Vermute es erstens eine Dünnschicht Zement auf dem Schalter ist damit nach einer langer Nutzung die „Klickwirkung“ nicht mehr vorhanden ist, weil dann die Taste nicht mehr den HiMake Schalter drücken kann = Neu kaufen Zweitens ist ein mini Billig Plastikteil ein gebaut (das nach einer Zeit Risse bekommt und dann ohne Funktion ist) um den HiMakeschalter zu Betätigen weil die Taste vom Gamepad nicht direkt über dem HiMake Schalter ist, muss mit dem Billig Plastikteil 4 bis 7 Millimeter überbrückt werden wegen der Exzentrizität Habe dann mit einer Folien Verpackung von Batterien die fehlende Zementschicht überbrückt (ob es notwendig ist/war keine Ahnung) wegen dem Höhen Unterschied und dann aus einem alten Mehrfachstecker die Messing „Kontaktdinger“ (wo die zwei Stifte von einem Eurostecker von Elektrogeräten in ne Steckdose kommen ) Mit einem Dremelklon so bearbeitet das es Passt….. sisifus Arbeit was nerven Braucht weil alles so Mini winzig ist

😀 okay das ist das Problem gewesen der Mirkoschalter ist 3 Pin
Das nächste mal bereite ich mich besser vor und mit der Zange vorher zerstören.
Ist 25 Watt Lötkolben mit Spitze die etwas dicker ist.
Das Lot wird auch gut Flüssig nur ist alles so eng an der Stelle das man kaum saugen kann und so.

Habe den Link bekommen

[Spoiler=Hintergrund Omron ]Background:
Omron switches are the common by far used in mice, however the naming scheme and rumors abound about what each does and is. Here I’ll try and document as much as I can and dispel some of the mysteries. This took hours to compile, reading websites, pdf’s and more, it contains all you should need to know.

Note:
Omron uses two naming methods. While I have not confirmed it, I suspect the numbers are different simply because one number is meant for a machine to install while the others are meant for individual sale/retail. The machine ones probably come assembled in trays or strips so the machine can feed them in quickly. This is backed up by the Asus ROG Spatha mouse which uses a machine numbers on the switches inside the mouse, but retail naming on the two switches included (this mouse allows the user to change them).

This guide covers both, but right or wrong about naming reasons, this is how they will be referred to in order to distinguish them.

D2F Switches:
The switches by Omron are all designated D2F, from there it gets a bit more complex. We’ll discuss retail switches first, as once you understand them, you can more easily understand the machine switches.

D2F vs D2FC indicates origin and more. (Important!)
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D2F = Japanese (always has Japan molded into top along with Omron label)
D2FC = China (may have China painted on side or top, or just a “C” in the model #)

Chinese models are mass produced and are considered to be a bit sloppy in tolerances, so one may have an actuation point a bit higher than another. Tolerances on these are pretty small so you wouldn’t notice, but just know that they are more sloppy than the Japanese models.

Japanese models have much nicer internals, better tolerances, better metals,a stronger frame and are better sealed from dirt and moisture. They are also slightly taller and have a shorter actuation distance, it’s for this reason they are not always interchangeable with Chinese models.

Which is better?
No question, the Japanese switch is better made, but unless you use it in a harsh environment, or plan on your mouse lasting 10 years or more it may not be worth the added expense or hassle to install them.

Warning: If your mouse has Chinese models, the Japanese models may not fit (unless there is a teeny bit of slop between button and switch itself, which is common). Most Logitech can probably handle it, but if not you can always file actuator. Just remember if you don’t like it and try to go back to the Japanese version things will be very sloppy.

D2F vs D2F -01 (can be with or without the dash)
The next batch of numbers or lack of them is usually an 01, this indicates the spring material.
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D2FC Indicates a “silver alloy spring”
D2FC -01 Indicates a “gold alloy spring”
I put them in quotes because I suspect it means they are plated spring steel, not an actual alloy of the two materials as implied by Omron.

Which is better?
Gold is better at fighting corrosion, however it doesn’t conduct as well and needs a bit more power to start conduction. In our situation, it doesn’t matter much and given time and corrosion (tarnish), the gold will maintain it’s level of resistance better. So unless you need the added conductivity for higher amps, gold is the better choice here as evidenced by the act that better mice almost universally use the 01.

Spring rates (-F)
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The next important indicator you want to know is the -F
D2FC =150g actuating force
D2FC -F = 75g actuation force

Which is better?
Now before you rush out and look for a -F, there are considerations here and it’s really not that simple.
-F will obviously be easier to push and likely will last longer (irrelevant, you’ll see). A non -F will have a much more solid click to it and a faster return. This is important if you play FPS and need to rapid fire. Most people tend to prefer the non -f, especially in gaming mice, but if you don’t game the -f may be your favorite and I can see some of you already drooling, but…

Warning: I told you this wasn’t that simple…
Switches have a max force rating which happens to be based on the switch and is typically 10x the actuation force. So if you tend to abuse your mice, the non -f can actually last much longer. Just another reason for gamers to consider the non -F. As you start pounding the button for rapid fire, you can easily exceed the -F’s force limits which is only a little over a pound. This becomes more relevant in the next section.

Lifespan Will be labeled as D2F -01 (10M)
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Remember I said lifespan on the -F was irrelevant, now you learn why.
There is a rumor that Japanese switches start with a lower lifespan and that the -F has a longer lifespan. This doesn’t seem to really hold much water when you consider that Omron themselves labels them for you. Sometimes.

Warning: Keep in mind that these numbers are without any load, and they really do mean ANY load. If the mouse button rests on the switch button or your finger causes it to, then the lifespan will be shortened. Anything touching that button shortens the lifespan. Your mouse may have some slop to prevent this when your fingers are off the mouse, but as soon as you put them on it, the lifespan is probably starting to drop as the weight of your fingers remove that slop. Personally, 10M last longer than 20M for me, see my note here.

Omron has multiple ratings:
(1M) = 1million presses
(3m) = 3million presses
(5m) = 5million presses
(10M) = 10million presses
(20M) = 20million presses

Unfortunately, the only surefire way to know for certain is with the part number as shown above as they didn’t always mark them. However they often coincided with the button color or a painted dot on top.

Some of the lower numbers the details are sketchy, but we don’t really care about them anyhow.
Black – no dot – (1M) = 1million presses (not verified)
Red or Yellow button or dot (3m) = 3million (not verified)
Red or Yellow button or dot (5m) = 5million (not verified)
Gray button and/or dot – (10M) = 10million
White button and/or dot – (20M) = 20million

The colors are also referred to as tops, so when someone says a “white top” Omron, they mean it’s a switch rated for 20mil. Presses.

Caution: I don’t recommend relying on the button color. MS has custom switches made for them (labeled MS) which can be different and I have seen white and gray botton Omrons with no (XXM) stamped on them. These are usually older models, but it’s something to keep in mind. Dots and labeling is the only surefire way to know and a while lower numbers may not say it, you can bet a 20M is going to let you know it’s a 20M.

I’ll put a chart at the bottom showing what is using what that I know of and if others post I will try and add them.

Other random numbers and letters in the switch part number Example D2F L3 -T
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Frankly, you do not want any of these on your switch, as they pertain to the soldering terminals and different ways to actuate the button, almost none of which are useful to use. Note: Levers can be removed, so if you want a specific switch in a hurry and can only find it with a lever, you can always remove it from the switch and use it without problems, just be careful removing it.

L = Hinge lever
L2 = Roller lever
L3 = simulated roller
L30 = larger simulated roller
-T = self clinching terminals (this can still work in a mouse)
-A = right angled terminals
-A1 = left angled terminals
-D3 = big solder terminals
-D = compact terminals

Machine switch Numbers
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D2F-F-7N is Comparable to D2F-01F (Japanese) (Confirmed this is a 75g switch!)
D2FC-F-7N is Comparable to D2FC-01F (Chinese)

D2F-3-7 is reportedly comparable to D2F-01F (but I suspect it’s closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Japanese)
D2FC-3-7 is probably comparable to D2FC-01F (but I suspect it’s closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Chinese)

Note: I do not know if the D2FC-3-7 exists, but I believe it might since the 7N has a Japanese and Chinese counterpart. A quick Google search turned up nothing.

Other Switch Brands
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Yes, there are others that can be used. Lots in fact. Most agree that the Omrons are the best and by far the most common in quality mice, which begs the question, if they are the norm, why do people and manufacturers make such a big deal over Omrons. “Look, I have the same as everyone else!”
Various brands:
Kinzu, Kana, Himake, Panasonic, Huanos (loud according to TP4Tissue), Zippy, Qiaoh and TTF
Interesting ones:
TTF is considered quietest
Zippy uses a coil spring so may be more durable

Popular Mice and what switches they use:
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Almost all use a D2FC-F-7N the difference is the lifespan.
Asus
Rog Gladius = 20M (user replaceable)
ROG Spatha = 20M (user replaceable)

CoolerMaster
Storm = 10M

Logitech – Typically uses Omron 10Ms in most of their mice, however some gaming have used 20 lately.

G302 = 20M
G303 = 20M
G500 = ? (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)
G500S = 20M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)
G502 = unlabeled
G600 = 20M
G700 =10M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)
G700S = 20M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)
G9 = 10M
G9X = 10M
G900 = 20M (possibly 10)
M705 Marathon = Himake switches

Master = 10M
MX Revolution = 10M
MX Performance = 10M

Razer
Deathadder 2013 = 10M

Steelseries
Sensei = 20M
Not all Steelseries use Omrons!

Quelle:https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.0%5B/Spoiler%5D